Diver Comfort

Being comfortable while diving is a relative term. For some, being comfortable means diving in warm water with great visibility and no current. For others it might mean having equipment that functions well and that fits well. Sometimes it is hard to control the environmental factors. However you can do a lot to make your dive more comfortable by making your equipment as comfortable as possible.

One of my students had all kinds of problems with the mouthpiece of the regulator she was using during the certification dives. The equipment problem almost prevented her from completing the certification. Eventually we were able to get a better fitting mouthpiece and she had no further equipment problems.

Recently I got an email from her letting me know that she is going to purchase a mouthpiece that she knows is comfortable and will be taking the mouthpiece on her upcoming dive vacation. She will use her own mouthpiece on the rental gear at the resort. I like the idea of being proactive in dealing with gear issues.

There are many things that one can do to make your gear more comfortable. For example, making sure that you have adequate exposure protection (to prevent sunburn, abrasions and stings). Another example is making sure that you can operate all the various releases, inflators etc. on your BCD. This is especially important when you are using a rental BCD. On your checkout dive at the resort, it is good idea to practice inflating, deflating, etc. without looking. You should be able to locate the low pressure hose, find the correct button and inflate/deflate without looking. You should be able to find and use any air releases on the lower back of the BCD (if so equipped).

Being familiar with your gear, and making sure that everything fits and feels good on you will go a long way to making you more comfortable in the water.

Equalize early and often

As most divers know, equalizing early and often will prevent problems and "squeezes". If you wait to equalize until you experience discomfort, then you have waited too long. You should be equalizing - gently - as often as possible on your descent. Some agencies teach that one should equalize every meter / 3 feet or so. Personally I think that one should equalize a lot more often than that.

The key issue is that the pressure change is huge in the first 10 meters / 33 feet of the dive (I will not delve into the theory now, but will do so in a later post). Therefore the pressure difference in the inner and outer can be substantial, even at relatively shallow depths. It is critical that you equalize the pressures before injury occurs to the delicate structures in your ear.

Please see this excellent tutorial by Edmond Kay, M.D. for more indepth information on equalization techniques and theory.

Keep sharpening the saw

A few years ago I read a great book by author Stephen Covey called The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People. Many people are probably familiar with Covey and this book. The habit of “Sharpening the Saw” is particularly applicable to SCUBA diving. In terms of sharpening the Saw the author makes the case that to be effective in your field you should keep your skills current and keep developing your knowledge base and abilities. In other words, never rest on your laurels.

Unlike many other hobbies and pastime activities, SCUBA diving requires one to keep up with new developments and equipment. As an instructor, you might have guessed that I would be beating the drum of continuing education. At the end of every open water class that we teach we always mention continuing education and encourage the students to sign up for more classes. We do this for a number of reasons (no, it is not just a money making ploy). The reason I do it is because I want people to become passionate about diving and derive as much pleasure from diving as I do.

There is research that indicates that people who complete continuing education classes and own their own equipment keep diving longer and are safer divers - a very obvious but important conclusion.

In my case, I continued to take classes after my open water class because that kept me diving and because I actually enjoy learning new things. Sometimes, taking a class was the only way I was able to dive in winter (ok, so it was only in a pool, but I still got wet).

From my observation, it would seem to me that less than twenty percent of the divers that I encounter end up taking the advanced open water classes. Even a smaller percentage goes on to take the rescue class. From my personal experience, I would say that every diver should complete at least the advanced and rescue classes. The rescue class was one of those classes that proved pivotal in my dive training. Once I completed the rescue class I felt much more comfortable in the water and knew that I could help myself and others if I got into trouble. The great thing about the rescue class is that you practice various scenarios for rescuing others.

In some of my previous posts I wrote about safety stops and that I like to practice various skills on the safety stop, like mask clears, hovering, regulator recovery etc. A responsible diver will always keep sharpening the saw of their skills and knowledge.

Is that a shark in the water?

One of the blogs that I like to read on a regular basis is DiveSouthAfrica. For the last few days there have been many posts in the Dive South Africa blog that mentioned shark attacks of various types. It might just be co-incidence, but it seems that there is an up tick in the number of attacks. As many might know, South Africa has a long coastline with a very rich diversity of marine life.

A while ago I wrote about how I dislike the practice of chumming to lure sharks to dive cages for the purposes of photography. Cage diving is very popular in South Africa and generates a good income for the various operators who gear their dives to tourists and thrill seekers. These operators cater to divers and non-divers alike since many of them will not require SCUBA certification for the cage dives. One of the shark attacks mentioned in the Dive South Africa blog happened close to where cage diving and chumming occur.

As I wrote previously, I do not think that chumming can have a good outcome. Personally, I believe that if we are to enjoy marine life we should interfere as little as possible with the way the animals behave naturally. If that means that we have to wait a little longer for a shark to appear then so be it.

Recently, there was an interesting documentary on television about Shark Mountain in the Cocos Islands. This particular site has rich diversity of marine life with an abundance of various shark species. It was fascinating to see the documentary makers prepare for their dives, and how they dove amongst literally hundreds of hammerheads.

One very interesting scene in the documentary showed the mating behavior of white tipped sharks. According to the narrator, it was the first time in twenty years of diving that he was able to see the mating ritual from start to finish. It was very violent and the female was left bleeding and exhausted. For a while, I was concerned that the males would kill the female in the mating ritual. Apparently, these sharks have the most violent mating behavior of the shark family. It is surprising that the species manages to survive such violent social behavior. Most interesting though was the documentary maker was not in a cage and was probably within 20 yards/meters or so from the sharks.

I guess the point of this post is to contrast various ways in which we can interact with the top predator in the sea. It might mean that we have to travel further, spend more time researching and waiting, but in my opinion it is safer to observe the sharks in their natural environment without introducing any external influences like chumming. However, having said all that, I would not like to encounter a great white face to face without the security of a cage. I guess most other species I would not have too much trouble with, but the great whites still get my adrenaline pumping!

PS: 10/26/05 noticed an interesting link on Divester about a shark video in South Africa. Worth watching. Thanks Bill.

There must be a better way

It is hard to understand why it is still necessary and permissible to pump vast quantities of sewage (raw and treated) into the world's oceans. Yes, I know that the amount of sewage pumped into the sea is very small compared to the total volume of sea water, that there have been studies that claim that it is a safe practice, that it is economically necessary, blah, blah, blah. Yes, I know and understand the arguments in favor of dumping sewage into our oceans.

However, I must say I find the thought of diving in sewage (no matter how diluted or treated) to be repulsive. Yes, I know that the fish do their thing in the sea. I am ok with that. I am not ok, however, with introducing our waste into the oceans, when there are better ways of treating and processing sewage.

The following appeared in an article on CDNN (http://www.cdnn.info/news/eco/e051017.html) - originally from the Bradenton Herald.

BOYNTON BEACH, Florida (17 Oct 2005) -- State environmental regulators are investigating a pump that's dumping treated sewage into the Atlantic Ocean after recreational scuba divers said it was killing a coral reef.
The group, Palm Beach County Reef Rescue, says a pipe from the South Central Regional Wastewater Treatment Plant is spewing nitrogen-rich sewage that's fueling algae blooms. The algae are fouling the Gulf Stream Reef, a popular diving spot off Boynton Beach a mile and a half away from the pipe, the divers say.

"It's clear-cut," said Reef Rescue Director Ed Tichenor, a former New Jersey environmental consultant for private industry. "There are areas of (the reef) that look like a parking lot now."

I am not a scientist, marine biologist or an activist. I am just an average guy who loves to dive and help other people dive. It bothers me that we still need to dump sewage into the oceans when there are so many other options available. Why must we harm the oceans just because it is cheaper to do it that way?

As a society, we should display the moral integrity and courage to make the difficult decisions necessary to be good stewards of the natural resources that have been entrusted to us.

Equipment - lights, camera, action

A while ago I wrote about my friend the Navigating Phenom (NP) who is an avid underwater videographer. NP has gathered quite the impressive collection of video equipment. Not only has he become a good photographer, he has also learned a great deal about marine life. What NP does is produce very nice looking short movies of the various dives that he does. When he is editing the footage he will make annotations about what the various species of marine animals are that he happens to be filming.

NP says that the key to capturing great footage and pictures is to be very patient and to know and understand the species that you are filming. If you know their behavior you will know where to look and what to expect. Many divers invest in fish identification books/slates that will help identify the various species you might encounter.

To get started in underwater photography, it might be a good idea to take an underwater photography class. You will learn many skills that will be useful in capturing excellent shots. The other class that might be useful is to take a buoyancy control class. This will help you develop pinpoint buoyancy control.

A good camera, housing, good lights and patience will make a huge difference to your enjoyment of the marine world.

After reading Willy's post in Divester.com I was reminded that a good site that you might find interesting for indepth camera information and reviews is Wetpixel.

Equipment - Fins

There are many different types of fins on the market. The choice that you make will be influenced by a number of factors including, the type of diving that you will be doing, how much you want to spend and whether you have any physical limitations.

Type of diving: if you will be diving in warm tropical waters then you would probably want to select a full foot fin. Cold water divers prefer to wear booties to keep their feet warm and generally use open heeled fins with the booties. If you are going to be doing both cold and warm water diving, then a good compromise would be to select an open heeled pair of fins since you use can them in both cold and warm water.

Cost: generally there is a relationship between the cost of the fins and how well they perform. The newer technology fins have undergone some very interesting changes. For example Scubapro markets split fins that look like they should not work, but work very well. Most manufacturers have a line of fins that include some kind of split fin/channel technology. The idea is that the split in the fins (or channels) help reduce the water pressure and resistance, yet allow you to kick efficiently. I do not want to delve too much into the theory of how they work, suffice to say that split fins have my hearty recommendation.

Physical limitations: If your knees have been injured due to a sports injury or some kind of accident etc. you certainly want to be careful in selecting the type of fins that you dive with. Fins make a huge difference to your comfort in the water. The newer, more efficient fins put less stress on your knees and allow you to kick more efficiently.

Consult your local dive store (LDS) about your specific fin choice, especially if you have some kind of physical limitation. Finding a good fit is important so that you can prevent or reduce cramping and excessive fatigue. Your LDS will be able to help you find a well fitting pair of fins.

Willy Volk from http://www.divester.com/ wrote an interesting post on open heeled fins versus full foot fins that include many links to excellent articles for more indepth research. See Willie's article here. Thanks Willie.

Equipment - Regulators

This is not going to be an exhaustive discussion of regulators. Suffice to say that there are many excellent models on the market from great manufacturers that work really well. However for the beginning diver there are important questions to answer before you decide on a specific make and model.

The first criterion that I would look at is the type of diving you will be doing. If you will be diving in warm tropical water, then you would most likely be selecting a different regulator from the person who will be diving in mostly cold water. In regard to cold water, one should select a regulator that is environmentally sealed. What this means is that very cold water will not (should not) cause a free flow.

The second criterion that I would evaluate is the mass (weight) of the actual second stage. If you are prone to jaw fatigue you would want to select a second stage that is as light as possible. Many of the newer second stages are made from a durable lightweight plastic material that performs very well.

Another factor to consider is whether there are additional ports available on the first stage. Additional ports will allow you add more hoses later on if you need. For example you might want to dive with a drysuit etc.

Alternate air sources (octopus) have to be clearly visible and are normally yellow. Most divers usually select an octopus that is compact and can be used in the up or down position. This will become clear to you when you start practicing donating an air source to your buddy. When you hand the octopus to your buddy, you don't want to waste time making sure that it is in the upright position. It should work in any position. If you will be diving with an integrated air source on your BCD, please see my previous post about BCD’s.

If you are a large framed person or tend to breathe very hard, you might want to determine if the regulator will be able to supply you the amount of air that you need. The higher performing regulators are very hard to "over breathe". This means that even if you do a strenuous and/or deep dive, the regulator will still be able to supply you all air that you need.

With regulators, you typically get what you pay for. The higher priced regulators generally perform to higher standards and allow one to do more advanced types of diving. However, most current regulators from reputable manufacturers perform very well for the recreational diver.

I am not going to make a specific recommendation about a manufacturer or model. I think it is best that you determine what works best for you with the help of your local dive store (LDS). In fact I think it is important that you have some kind of relationship with the store, since you need to have your regulator serviced every year. Additionally, most good stores will allow you to try out various models in the pool if you are not sure of what works best for you. Don't feel you need to make a decision and there is no going back. Make sure that the regulator you select is comfortable, performs beyond the level of diving that you will be doing and that you have it serviced regularly (I know I have said that twice now - but you know how it is with instructors...)

Equipment - useful items to carry

This post is a continuation of the previous discussions on BCD's in the sense that I will be discussing items that you could carry in the BCD pockets.

Signaling devices: It is a good idea for every diver to carry at least one signaling device. Some signaling devices that divers carry are whistles, mirrors, "safety sausage", lights, air horns, tank bangers and so on. Signaling devices can used to alert a boat at the surface to pick you up if you happen to drift away from the boat or surface a distance away from where the boat is. A safety sausage is an inflatable device that you can inflate using a regulator. They are typically around 4 to 6 feet tall and are either bright yellow, red or a marmalade color. At night you use your dive light and illuminate the inside of the safety sausage.

Knives, EMT shears: There are many different kinds of dive knives available. The type that I would recommend are made from titanium and do not corrode due to salt water immersion. Knives come in various styles. Some have rounded blade tips and some have sharp blade tips. It is a personal choice, but most people recommend a rounded tip on the blade to prevent accidental punctures of your gear etc. Some people have the mistaken idea that a knife can be used to fend off an attack by a marine animal and therefore choose a sharp tipped blade. The primary purpose of a dive knife is to be able to free yourself from underwater entanglements like fishing line, rope, etc. An alternative style of knife is a small knife that is sold with the BCD. The knife fits into a sheath in the shoulder harness. The advantage of these BCD included knives is that they are small, easy to carry and out of the way.

Some divers (myself included) like to carry a knife and a pair of EMT shears. The shears work differently to a knife in that you can easily cut through something using only one hand. Personally I like to carry my knife in my BCD pocket and my shears on the front of my BCD close to my left shoulder. The advantage of carrying two cutting devices in different places is that you can always reach one of them if you become stuck somewhere.

Some divers like to carry their knives on their left or right calves. I don't have a problem with this except that dive knives are the one article that is most often lost by divers, because if you are not careful, the blade can easily detach itself from the sheath and you will have to stop in at the local dive store to purchase a brand new shiny knife.

Equipment - BCD part III

This will probably be the final segment on the continuing discussion on selecting of BCD's for the beginning diver.

Cummberbund / Cumberbund: Most current BCD's on the market have a sash like waistband that generally goes around the stomach of the diver and has velcro fasteners to secure it in place. The purpose of the cummerbund/cumberund is to keep the BCD in place and to prevent lateral movement.

It is important to remember that as you descent in the water, the water pressure will cause your wetsuit material to compress and you might find that the cumberbund might be not as tight at depth as at the surface. Do not overtighten the cumberbund fit when donning your gear. The cumberbund should fit snug around your stomach, but should not be so tight that you have trouble breathing or moving.

There are some designs that rely on buckles instead of velcro fasteners. I have both system on various BCD's that I own. I don't have a strong preference for either system, but if I had to make a choice, then I guess the buckle system feels a little more secure to me. However for the beginning diver, a velcro system works very well and it easy to use.

Releases: There are various styles of releases on BCD's. The primary purpose of the releases is to enable the diver to doff (take off) the equipment quickly and safely. Releases will be found on stomach belt, sternum belts and on the shoulder harnesses. The purpose of the various belts is to keep the BCD securely fitted to the diver. When choosing a BCD, try to select one that has a sternum belt as well (some don't).

There are differences in the way the releases operate (between the different manufacturers). Select a style that you find easy to operate. If you will be using gloves with the type of diving that you do, use the gloves in the store to see if you can operate the releases with gloves on.

Safety tip: always make sure you know where the releases are on your buddy's gear and that you know how they operate. You might have to assist your buddy in the case of an emergency and it is vital to know how to quickly locate and use the releases on his/her gear.

Equipment - BCD part II

This is a continuation of the previous post on some pointers to selecting a BCD for the beginning diver.

Integrated Air: Some of the newer BCD's have an innovative feature that incorporates the alternate air source into the low pressure inflator hose system. The major advantage of this system is that you have one less hose in your regulator setup and don't need a separate alternate air source (also called an octopus). The one thing to remember about the integrated air systems is that if you have to donate an air source to a buddy, you would donate your primary regulator to the buddy and you would then breathe from the integrated air regulator. This is different from the traditional systems where you would keep the primary regulator and donate the alternate regulator (octopus) to the buddy needing air. For a beginning diver, either system has both pros and cons, but if you can afford the additional expense of an integrated system, it probably is beneficial since you have one less hose to worry about.

Pockets: Personally I like to have adequate pockets on BCD's. Sometimes I feel that I don't have enough pocket space for all the things that I like to carry (instructors are required to carry additional equipment when working with students). When selecting a BCD's look for one that has adequate pocket space and that the pockets are easy to get to and to open. Some pockets have velcro strips, others have clips or even zips. The actual choice depends on what your preference is. Personally I like the velcro systems because I find it easier to open when wearing thick gloves. However, I would recommend trying various pocket systems with gloves on (wear the gloves that you might typically wear with the diving that you do).

D-Rings: Most current BCD's come with clips and D-rings. There are various types of D-rings, but typically they are either made from a tough plastic or metal. The metal ones are preferable since they are more durable. Initially you might not need to use the D-rings, but as you accumulate more gear, you might wish you had just one more D-ring. If your BCD did not come with D-rings or you want to add some, you could always buy additional d-rings from your local dive store (LDS). Select a BCD that has at least two or three d-rings attached in easy to access locations.

Clips: If you will be using an alternate air source system (octopus) you would want to have a method to attach the alternate regulator to your BCD. The system that you choose must allow you to be able to detach and donate the alternate air source quickly, yet be secure enough so that the alternate regulator will not come loose on its own. Some other types of clips allow you to attach miscellaneous items such as your console to. If your BCD does not come with enough clips (most don't) you can always buy them from the LDS. I would recommend at least two clips. One for the alternate air source and one for the console. Buy an additional two or three as spares for your dive kit.

Tomorrow I will write more about the various releases and cumberbunds found on BCD's.

Equipment - BCD part I

I am assuming that most divers who will be buying their first BCD want to get something that they can use for a number years, that they will not outgrow in terms of functionality and use, and of course reasonably priced.

We are not going to discuss the history and use of BCD's in SCUBA diving. There are many very good articles published that can be used as a good reference. However, what I would like to do is try to give the first time buyer some considerations that might be useful when you make that all important selection.

Type: BCD's come in various styles and suit various functions. For the beginning SCUBA divers a stablizer jacket is probably the best way to go. A backplate system is an alternative for the serious technical or wreck diver.

Integrated weights: Some BCD's come with integrated weight pockets that allow weight to be carried in the BCD as opposed to a weight belt. I do not have a strong feeling about either option and arguments can be made for each type of weight system. Some divers like the concept of an integrated system for convenience and simplicty. The integrated systems have the benefit that dumping weights in an emergency is very easy since the weight pockets are easy to get to. On the other hand, weight belts are sometimes covered by a cumberband or other pieces of equipment and dumping the weight belt might take a little longer than the integrated weight pockets. I am sure there are those who might disagree on this point, but that has been my observation. The downside to having the integrated weight pockets on the BCD is that sometimes the weights can move around on you causing unwanted movement in the water.

Personally, I have a slight preference for a weight belt, especially when I am wearing a lot of weight. Bottom line: try both systems and see which works better for you. With an integrated system you have more flexibility since you have the benefit of still being able to wear a weight belt if you want to in the future.

Tomorrow I will write more about integrated air systems, dump valves, pockets and a few other essential things to look for in BCD's.

Buy or Rent

The age old question "should I buy equipment or rent?" comes up from time to time in classes. For the person who will be diving once a year, then I suppose renting could be a way to go. For the person who will be diving more than once a year, then without doubt, owning your own equipment is a much better way to go.

The advantages of owning your own equipment include the following:

• Safety: Becoming familiar with the operation of varous pieces of equipment
• Convenience: Able to dive at a moment's notice and don't have to be concerned with making a trip to the Local Diving Store (LDS) to pick rental gear
• Cost effective: Owners of equipment tend dive more regularly (thus making the initial investment in training more cost effective)

So the next question that often comes up is "What should I buy first?" The new SCUBA divers are often faced with making the difficult choice of whether to buy a BCD or regulator first. Both pieces of equipment are relatively expensive and range from gear aimed at casual recreational divers to specialized gear aimed at technical divers.

There is not really a good answer to which piece of gear to buy first. One could argue in favor of either a BCD or regulator. It really is a personal choice. The key thing to bear in mind when buying gear is buying something that will enable you to dive safely and that you will not outgrow within the next 3 to 5 years.

A work colleague is a brand junkie. He ONLY uses Scubapro equipment. Fins, wetsuit, BCD, regulator etc. Not only does he insist on using only Scubapro he also insists that everything has to be color matched as well. Although I appreciate his brand loyality, I think one should be selective about the gear you buy based on the kind of diving that you will be doing.

I know of an instructor who shall remain nameless who went online and bought the cheapest possible BCD that he could find. His reasoning was that it would get ruined in the pool anyway so why use a decent BCD in the pool? He has used the cheap BCD on all kinds of training, wreck diving and so on. I noticed that he in fact does own a very nice OMS setup, but he never uses it. I guess he is keeping the OMS BCD for a "special dive". As far as I know, his OMS BCD has never been in the pool. Now that I think about it, it is probably huge overkill using an OMS BCD in the pool.

This is a topic that I will be writing about for the next few days since there is much to talk about.

Just a thought

Getting to teach beginning SCUBA classes is something that I look forward to. The Local Dive Store (LDS) that I work for is fairly large and we have many part-timers like me who teach on a fairly consistent basis.

However, I do have one pet peeve. The senior instructor (full-timer) who schedules the instructors for the classes seems to have scheduling and time management issues. The problem apparently is that his “system” of scheduling is (to put it kindly) by the seat of the pants.

More often than not, it takes at least three phone calls and a few personal reminders to get the schedule for the next three to six months. Sometimes I feel guilty about asking so many times, but it seems to be the only way to get the senior instructor (SI) going on setting up the schedule.

Perhaps it is that SI is getting along in years and forgets that he needs to get the schedule done. Alternatively, it could be that he is genuinely disorganized and has a difficult time on getting administrative tasks done (judging from his desk, I think that this might be true). I don’t really know, but I sure wish we had a better system.

Having a person that has time management issues set up a schedule seems to be a contradiction. In the case of SI, I think the old saying “a stitch in time saves nine” could be more accurately stated as “a schedule in time saves many phone calls!”